Flake No More: Clearing Up Dandruff, Buildup & Scalp Confusion

by Tania Banks March 22, 2025

Beautiful black girl with brown, glowing skin.  She is holding her head in frustration as she has beautiful textured hair but she has dandruff that has fallen on her shoulders which is frustrating to her.

Let’s Talk Dandruff

You know it’s time for a good, deep wash and conditioner treatment when you start combing your hair and tiny white flakes start falling like snow. And don’t even get me started on what it’s like when you're wearing a black t-shirt and someone hits you with the, "What are those white flakes on your shirt?" Embarrassing, right? But let me tell you, you're not alone. Dandruff is way more common than people think. While it's not dangerous, it can be frustrating and even a little embarrassing.

What Even Is Dandruff?

Dandruff is simply dead skin shedding from the scalp. But here's the thing: it can be caused by different factors like dry scalp, oil buildup, fungal irritation (mainly from a yeast called Malassezia), or not shampooing enough.

Now, let me take y'all back real quick. When I was younger, I used to get picked on for having dandruff. My scalp was just dry, but everyone assumed it was because my hair was dirty. That used to make me feel so self-conscious, not knowing at the time my scalp just sucked up moisture really easily. Fast forward to now, after going to hair school and continuing to learn on this journey, I know a lot more now on how to treat my hair and scalp. And I want you to know better too.

Dandruff vs. Product Buildup: Not the Same!

A lot of people mix up dandruff with product buildup, and I get why. Let me paint the picture: You went to get your hair braided two months ago. They laid it down with braiding gel, edge control, maybe a little mousse, and even some scalp oil to finish it off. Weeks go by and you're doing your thing—oiling your scalp, reapplying edge control, refreshing with more mousse. Add some daily life (dust, sweat, maybe a dip in the pool), and by the time you're ready to take your braids out, you see thick white gunk between your parts.

That? That’s product buildup.

Now, dandruff might also be in the mix, but the two are not the same. Product buildup comes from, well, products. Dandruff is a skin condition. But seeing both together can definitely make you rethink your routine when you have protective styles in.


Scalp Conditions That Look Like Dandruff (But Aren’t)

We all panic at the first sight of flakes, but not all flakes are dandruff. Here's a breakdown of other scalp conditions that can look similar but need different care:

1. Dry Scalp

Just like your skin gets ashy in the winter, your scalp gets dry too. Tight, itchy, and flakey? You probably just need hydration and more moisture in your routine.

2. Seborrheic Dermatitis

Think of this like dandruff with an attitude. It causes greasy, red patches and yellowish flakes that can show up on your scalp, eyebrows, or behind your ears. It can also be caused by an inflammatory reaction to excess Malassezia yeast on the skin.

3. Scalp Psoriasis

An autoimmune condition that causes thick, silvery scales. It can definitely be mistaken for dandruff but needs specific treatment.

4. Scalp Eczema

Red, inflamed, itchy patches—especially if your scalp reacts to products quickly. If this sounds like you, keep your routine simple and soothing. Your crown deserves peace.

5. Product Buildup (“Fake Dandruff”)

If you’re a protective style type of person, you know the struggle. Oils, gels, edge control, they build up over time and flake like dandruff, but it’s not the same. Although it can sometimes block follicles, cause itchiness, and lead to breakouts or flaky residue.


How Herbs & Oils Haircare Helps Your Scalp Thrive

At Herbs & Oils Haircare Essentials, we don’t just focus on growth or styling. We focus on scalp health first. Because a healthy crown starts at the root.

Here’s how just a few of Herbs & Oils natural ingredients help aid to fight dandruff, soothe irritation, and keep your scalp balanced:

🪧 Tea Tree Oil

That go-to for calming the scalp and medically proven to fighting Malassezia, the fungus linked to dandruff. It’s antibacterial, antifungal, and keeps your follicles fresh and clean.

🌿 Rosemary Oil

Boosts circulation, promotes growth, and reduces inflammation. Perfect for dry or irritated scalps.

🍃 Peppermint Oil

Cooling, soothing, and stimulating. Great for itch relief and detoxing the scalp while promoting healthy hair growth.


My Personal list of HNO MVPs:

Let me put you on real quick:

  • The Tonic – Our leave-in spray that hydrates, detangles, stimulates growth, and calms irritation. Beard-safe too!
  • Full Bodied Butter – Rich moisture for scalp, hair, and skin. Perfect for sealing in hydration.
  • Last Call Finishing Oil – Lightweight shine, deep nourishment, and growth support in a bottle.
  • Curly Cocktail Curl Cream – Defines and moisturizes while doubling as a deep conditioner. Your curls will eat this UP.
  • Naturally Bubbly Shampoo – A gentle, nourishing cleanser formulated to lift buildup and flakes without stripping your hair’s natural oils.
  • Top it Off Conditioner – Smooths and replenishes moisture, strengthens your strands, and helps maintain a balanced, healthy scalp.

Let’s Talk:

Have you ever mistaken product buildup for dandruff? Or tried everything for flakes and didn’t realize it was eczema or something else? Let’s share in the comments.

What’s your biggest scalp struggle, and what’s helped you most so far? Drop your story and let’s heal those crowns together.




Tania Banks
Tania Banks

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